The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Seamus on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:08 pm

mattlaker wrote:Nah if i were i'd build a 1:24 harrier or something... :whistle:


Touche........it does not bode well for me then that there's another in the stash :oops:

Now, this thread has become sidetracked enough i think :blinky: (Always wanted to use that smiley :))
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Ben H on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:20 pm

So, you want a model shop list? I would suggest:

modelsforsale.co.uk
relishmodels.co.uk
anticsonline.co.uk
wonderlandmodels.co.uk

All have offered my great service in the past - any more anyone wants to add?
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby mattlaker on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:26 pm

Random wrote:So, you want a model shop list? I would suggest:

modelsforsale.co.uk
relishmodels.co.uk
anticsonline.co.uk
wonderlandmodels.co.uk

All have offered my great service in the past - any more anyone wants to add?


Yeh, all them, and would add Emodels.co.uk as they have been superb in the past- they always phone up if any problems.
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Seamus on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:32 pm

I'd throw in modelhobbies and SBX as well. SBX provides free postage too :)

And of course, ebay :biggrin:
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby scotthldr on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:53 pm

Here we go again UKAR Modelling Forums own Mr and Mrs. I leave you both to fight whos who :grin:

I'm totally in awe of you Shaun, form the amount of waffle(advice) you have given on here, you must be typing with one hand while juggling the latest build in the other :shock:


Antics Online, Netmerchants(OK did have a problem but got it sorted, but you can't beat next day delivery), Wonderland Models, Normandy Hobbies(France), Flightdecs(Canada), Relish Models.
Last edited by scotthldr on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby mattlaker on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:55 pm

scotthldr wrote:Here we go again UKAR Modelling Forums own Mr and Mrs. I leave you both to fight whos who :grin:

I'm totally in awe of you Shaun, form the amount of waffle(advice) you have given on here, you must be typing with one hand while juggling the latest build in the other :shock:


Well which one builds in a man's scale?! you love it!!!
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby scotthldr on Mon 02 Feb 2009, 10:58 pm

mattlaker wrote:
scotthldr wrote:Here we go again UKAR Modelling Forums own Mr and Mrs. I leave you both to fight whos who :grin:

I'm totally in awe of you Shaun, form the amount of waffle(advice) you have given on here, you must be typing with one hand while juggling the latest build in the other :shock:


Well which one builds in a man's scale?! you love it!!!


Well since I only build 48th, that would be you then Matt :pinkwafer: :grin:
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby mattlaker on Tue 03 Feb 2009, 5:49 pm

Yeh, Hannants are absolutely pony- I have a couple of orders with them that i haven't heard anything about. They never even inform you of the status of the order, and if there are problems, common courtesy and edwardian politeness dictate correspondence. As long as the money is resting nicely in their business account, why should they honour their commitment to you!? :mad:
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Seamus on Tue 03 Feb 2009, 5:58 pm

I would re-tell the tale of the 7 months it took for them to deliver my Skyray, but I can't be arsed :whistle:

I personally would only use Hannants as a last resort. For the large part, I find I can get most of the stuff I want elsewhere (SBX even stock Xtracolour paints) and usually cheaper too. Difficult to knock the big H for their range of prodcuts though, it's just their customer service that needs massive improvement.
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby scotthldr on Tue 03 Feb 2009, 6:34 pm

Seamus wrote: Difficult to knock the big H for their range of prodcuts though, it's just their customer service that needs massive improvement.


On paper maybe, unfortunately half the stuff they don't have in stock and you have to wait 7 months for it :whistle:

Another one that I will praise is Jamiesons in Glasgow they don't have a website but they do take phone orders with Debit/Credit cards
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Trevster on Mon 02 Mar 2009, 10:44 am

Have always bought from Wonderland in the past (probably because I'm in Edinburgh and can browse quite happily there!). Pity to hear about problems with Hannants - fancy placing an order there and seeing if I can blag a "same surname" discount out of them... :lol:
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby scotthldr on Mon 02 Mar 2009, 11:44 am

Trevster wrote:Have always bought from Wonderland in the past (probably because I'm in Edinburgh and can browse quite happily there!). Pity to hear about problems with Hannants - fancy placing an order there and seeing if I can blag a "same surname" discount out of them... :lol:



I always phone them now before I place an order to make sure they actualy have the stuff in stock. If they do, they deliver within 2 weeks.
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Captain_Carisma on Wed 11 Mar 2009, 9:02 pm

Hi all,

I'm just getting ready to start the Revell Hunter I picked up a little while back (thanks again for the recommendations) and having had a quick look through the destructions, it looks like I'm going to have to spend a fair bit of time painting the finer details for the 'pit etc.

Does anyone have any tips/hints which might be useful when it comes to painting the smaller parts & details? I was never particularly brilliant in my younger days, so god only knows what I'll be like this time round!

Thanks in advance.

Martin
I've brought you a gift; I'll give you a hint, it's in my diaper, and it's not a toaster!
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Seamus on Wed 11 Mar 2009, 9:17 pm

Hi Martin,

Here's what I did with my Hunter cockpit

Image

Essentially, all I've done is paint it black, then drybrused silver over the top to pop out the details. Drybrushing is a dead simple technique, where you dip your paintbrush into the colour of your choice (silver in this case) then remove 95% of the paint from it using kitchen roll etc. Then, gently brush over the details- the paint will only cover the surface of the raised detail, bringing it out.

I've also picked out a couple of knobs and switches in yellow, for which I tend to use the tried and tested cocktail stick method- load a tiny drop of paint onto the end of said stick and apply to the appropriate switch. Easy :D

HTH, here's my build if you want to use it for reference, or more likely, find out what not to do :grin:

Cheers

Shaun :)
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Ben Montgomery on Wed 11 Mar 2009, 9:26 pm

For a pit that small you may just want to drybrush it.

1.Paint the pit the relevant colour (Black I think for the hunter)
2.Then pick a colour that stands out well from the black - white or silver are ideal.
3.Take an older brush and put some paint on the end - BEWARE: only use a small amount.
4.Take some tissue paper and wipe off paint until the brush no longer leaves a mark.
There is still some paint on the brush at this point.
5.Gently wipe the brush over the exposed details in the pit several times, and a lighter colour will begin to build up on the details.
6.Continue this for the whole pit.

MAKE SURE that you take off a lot of paint. If there is only a little streak of paint coming off when you wipe the brush, it will still leave quite a mess on the pit. Wipe it until there is no visible paint coming off. Then repeat step 5 as many times as necessary. The advantage of using such a small amount of paint is it allows you to pick out the detail better, and if it all goes wrong you can repaint without loss of detail.


Then for detailing instruments etc, use either a very thin paintbrush or a needle (or something equally small and pointy). Put a touch of paint right on the end - very small again and touch it gently to the instrument you want to colour. Patience and taking your time really are good here.

For example: 1/32 Phantom pit drybrushed and detailed:

Image

If you want to detail the ejection seats, the best thing to do is add some seat straps. You can make these by cutting tape into very thin small strips - I use electrical insulation tape. Position this where you want on the seat and add a dap of superglue at each end. You can also make buckles out of fuse wire, but I havnt tried this yet:

1/32 Phantom seat before belts:

Image

After belts:

Image


Hope this helps and is not too confusing,

Ben
Last edited by Ben Montgomery on Wed 11 Mar 2009, 9:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby MrAngry2 on Wed 11 Mar 2009, 9:31 pm

I'm amazed at that pit Ben :shock: , that is top notch work mate
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Captain_Carisma on Wed 11 Mar 2009, 9:48 pm

Thanks for the tips fellas.

Just to add to the original question, the other small detailing bit which I think could go somewhat pear shaped is the ejection seat handle. Any tips for tackling these? Obviously in 1:72 it's going to a bit more awkward, but any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again.

Martin
I've brought you a gift; I'll give you a hint, it's in my diaper, and it's not a toaster!
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Seamus on Wed 11 Mar 2009, 9:58 pm

For the ejection handles, the cocktail stick is your friend again :)

First, I'd suggest you paint the handles in yellow, then carefully use the stick to lightly apply the black stripes over the top. Here's my bash at the handle on my recent Wyvern build

Image

HTH

Cheers

Shaun :)

PS, I make no apologies to Ben if I beat him to the punch again :grin: :tongue:
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Captain_Carisma on Thu 12 Mar 2009, 10:18 pm

Thanks for the tips.

Will give it a bash when I finally get started. Will have to post a WIP thread.

Thanks again.

Martin
I've brought you a gift; I'll give you a hint, it's in my diaper, and it's not a toaster!
Captain_Carisma

Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby mattlaker on Tue 24 Mar 2009, 11:35 am

Personally, i tend to use revell plasto as a filler- primarily as it's what my LHS has in stock! Also, it doesn't require you mix it yourself! When it comes to seam filling, it's Tippex all the way... runs into the seam nicely, and is really easily scraped back. I know a lot of others use milliput and squadron fillers- it comes to personal choice, on a suck it and see basis! (obviously, don't suck it- it's toxic :grin: )
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Wrexham Mackem on Tue 31 Mar 2009, 12:01 pm

Thanks to you modellers for the tips and tricks in this thread. I have tried dry brushing and klear and am making big strides forward.

Here are a couple of questions from me if that's OK:

1) cement/glue. I'm aware of two types, poly cement and liquid poly. OK for most things, but transparent parts and tiny add-on parts at odd angles where you need a quick stick both give me grief. Do you lads use other types of glue at all?

2) painting wheels. Always fiddly; I get there in the end but is there a knack to a quick and accurate demarcation between wheel and tyre?

thanks and keep up the good work!

Nige.
its time to kick the tyres and light the fires
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby scotthldr on Tue 31 Mar 2009, 4:26 pm

For clear parts I use a PVA based glue called "Pacer Formula 560" labeled as "the worlds best canopy glue" but there is a few different brands out there like Gator Grip. It dries pretty fast, is strong while flexible and most important dries clear. For a quick fix or etched metal resin parts then the only way is Cyanoacrylate (Superglue) this can be bought thick, medium or thin and relates to the running of the stuff. Cyano isn't recommended for clear parts as it can and probably will fog the part, but a trick is to dip the clear part in Clear and allow to dry before using Cyano I have never tired it but others have with success.

I have to pop out just now but I will answer your wheel painting question later, an easy and simple technique

Right I'm back.

Really simple method to paint wheels getting pretty close to perfect results each time is to use what is called the Capillary method.

1/ First of all paint/spray the wheels the colour of the main hub ie: White, Silver,Light Grey etc and allow to dry.

2/ Once dry, thin some Black or Anthracite depending on how you want your tyres to look (I use Matt Black) When I mean thin it I mean thin it probably 4 parts thinner to 1 part paint.

3/ Then with a good quality small(size 000) paint brush take up some of the paint/thinner mixture and gently allow it to flow off the brush(it is important that you don't try and brush the mixture on as this will not work) into the tyre/wheel ridge indentation on the tyre side obviously. You will probably have to do this at 4 different points around the wheel to get a even coverage around the tyre . The paint will follow the ridge line around the wheel creating the prefect circle. You will have to repeat this about 3 times until you achieve a good boundry of Black around the hub before brushing in the rest of the tyre.

Hey presto you should now have prefect wheel/tyres.

HTH

Scott
Last edited by scotthldr on Tue 31 Mar 2009, 5:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby mattlaker on Tue 31 Mar 2009, 5:04 pm

I tend to use Humbrol Clearfix for canopies- tends to work pretty well, and doesn't fog anything. As for wheels, you can either get a set of eduard masks, and hang the expense, or, more simply, thin some anthracite paint or similar, and allow it to run slightly up to the edge of the wheel hub. Personally, i tend to use a steady hand and a very fine brush. Works for me!
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Postby Wrexham Mackem on Tue 25 Aug 2009, 7:54 am

Just a post of thanks for the responses to my questions, I've tried them and they work. The thinned paint around the wheel rims is genious. So thankyou lads!

(sorry its taken a while, that's me and models; slow!)
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