The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Modelling advice and photos of your latest creations
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scotthldr
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Post by scotthldr »

Paint conversion tables.

Over the past year people have been asking a lot of questions regarding paints and conversions between the different manufacturers.

This is a pretty vast area to be covered in one post but I'll start the ball rolling by covering the USA's Federal Standard 595 range

Contrary to popular belief Federal Standard 595 paints have no name, they have a 5 digit number that corresponds to each colour prefixed with the initials FS. The FS595 range is a colour collection not a colour system so new colours are getting added all the time hence why there is gaps between what already exists.

Example FS 16270

The first number indicates the level of sheen:
1=Gloss
2=Satin
3=Matt

The second number identifies which main colour group it belongs to

0=Browns
1=Reds
2=Oranges
3=Yellows
4=Greens
5=Blues
6=Greys
7=Other
8=Fluorescent

The third, fourth and fifth numbers join together to form a single number 001-999 (rarely goes above 600) which identifies the intensity of the colour. The lower the number the darker and the higher the number the lighter.

From the example above you can now tell that FS 16270 is , Gloss, Grey with a medium intensity as can be seen here
http://www.colorserver.net/showcolor.asp?fs=16270

Over time the more common colours in the FS range have been given a generic name by various paint companies to aid in their identification.

FS16270 is more commonly known as Neutral Grey which is the name that most of the hobby paint companies use, although some companies have issued their own names for their own reasons?

As said the FS range is vast and it is not practical to name every colour /shade here as we don't have the space or time. This is meant as an easy to understand guide into using the FS range and when used in conjunction with the instructions within the model kit and the various paint charts below will allow you to obtain as close a match as possible.

This is the best the Colour conversion table I have came across
http://www.paint4models.com/

Another good one. Scroll down until you see the links for the various paint ranges
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorchart ... arts_2.asp

HTH

Scott

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davidm
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Post by davidm »

I have a question, Masking Canopies....

I strugled a bit when masking the canopy for my stuka. Are there any good ways of doing this. I used a craft knife, but the results were not great.
I know I can buy ready cut masks, but it gets expensive.

Thanks

David

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MrAngry2
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Location: Great Dunmow, Essex

Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Post by MrAngry2 »

Sorry to drag up a really really old thread but im just starting to get back in to modelling after a 10ish year break, I have bought a Revell 1/72nd Lightning as a guinea pig to try out Weathering, rescribing etc.(also a 1/48th GR9)

I bought some Mig Pigments for the weathering but was a bit lost about what to use to rescribe the panel lines,

Also Im worried about smoothing off filler once used as I (in the past) have ruined the plastic so when spraying after you can see where I have 'sanded' it.

Thanks for any help and I hope my waffle makes sense.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/richardjudge/

Biggin Hill international cheese fair 2011 (TBC)

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Seamus
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Post by Seamus »

Can't help with Mig pigments as I've never used them....

For rescribing, I use a Tamiya scriber and an old dental scribe. Both remove material, instead of just pushing it to the side, so there's minimal clean up required after scribing. I'd recommend getting some Dymo embossing tape to scribe along. Cutting it into thin strips provides a nice, flexible straight edge to run the scriber along. Hopefully the picture describes it better :)

Image

A few gentle scribes are better than one big one, just in case you go wrong, which you will ;) Tippex is ideal for filling any slips you make.

Speaking of filling, I'd recommend getting a set of sanding sponges- Modelsforsale do a good set. Sand back the filler in ever finer grades of sponge, then polish it up with some wet and dry and/or micromesh. Wet sanding with the latter two will smooth the filler up nicely.

Hopefully that helps, just shout if not :)

Cheers

Shaun :)
My shots on Flickr and Airliners

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MrAngry2
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Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Post by MrAngry2 »

Thanks for your Help Shaun, I feel a rather expensive shopping trip coming along. :whistle:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/richardjudge/

Biggin Hill international cheese fair 2011 (TBC)

batcode
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Joined: Thu 05 Jul 2012, 9:48 am

Re: The Ultimate UKAR Modelling Guide Thread

Post by batcode »

hi been away from making models for many years due to kids etc but got few questions so can get back and better lol
i used to be ok with drybrushing and small bits but could never get the oil/smoke stains or get all the panels to show(ie the groves all over body etc i did try to use thin pencil and draw them in looked ok on some but disaster on others ) wats best way if poss any pic tuturial please :worship:


also looked at lot online model shops who are the best value for money and bargins as on low budget at moment and most relible many thanks going get made kits out attic thu prob lot repairs will try post pics