Sensational Shuttleworth

[LN Strike Eagle]

You can read my thoughts in the relevant thread, but suffice to say this was a superb show.

Mixed results with the camera again. Going have to go back to basics I think as I'm not getting the best out of my lens on a consistent basis - every now and again I'll get a shot with it that just looks amazingly sharp, but they're few and far between. What auto focus mode, focus points, IS modes etc do people use? I want to increase my "hit rate" and get more keepers. Do people still use back-button focussing? Should I investigate with that? Any help much appreciated.

Also had something a little odd with these when editing them - I cleaned the sensor the night before, and I seem to have 'floating' dust spots yesterday - one shot they're there, the next shot they've moved or gone completely... There was also a big hair or something showing up for a selection of 20 or so shots during the WW1 displays, which then disappears again. The shots of the Puma departing are almost completely clear of dust. Why would that be?


Shuttleworth Collection Season Premiere Airshow 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX MH434 (G-ASJV) - Old Flying Machine Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Avro Anson G-AHKX (TX176) - BAe Systems - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Avro Lancaster B.1 PA474 - Battle of Britain Memorial Flight (BBMF) - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk LF XVIE TE311 - RAF Battle of Britain Memorial Flight (BBMF) - Old Warden, May 2017 by Dan B, on Flickr


Avro Anson G-AHKX (TX176) - BAe Systems - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Bristol Blenheim Mk.IF L6739 (G-BPIV) - Aircraft Restoration Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Bristol Blenheim Mk.IF L6739 (G-BPIV) - Aircraft Restoration Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Ia N3200 (G-CFGJ) - Imperial War Museum - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Ia N3200 (G-CFGJ) - Imperial War Museum - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX MH434 (G-ASJV) - Old Flying Machine Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


DeHavilland Canada DHC-1 Chipmunk WG486 - RAF Battle of Britain Memorial Flight (BBMF) - Old Warden, May 2017 by Dan B, on Flickr


Hawker Sea Hurricane Mk.Ib Z7015 '7-L' (G-BKTH) - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Avro 504K E3273 (G-ADEV) - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Bristol F.2b Fighter D8096 (G-AEPH) - The Shuttleworth Collection - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Bristol M1C C4918 (G-BWJM) - The Shuttleworth Collection - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Bristol F.2b Fighter D8096 (G-AEPH) - The Shuttleworth Collection - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Sopwith Camel F Mk.I D1851 (G-BZSC) - The Shuttleworth Collection - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX MH434 (G-ASJV) - Old Flying Machine Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX MH434 (G-ASJV) - Old Flying Machine Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX MH434 (G-ASJV) - Old Flying Machine Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Supermarine Spitfire Mk.IX MH434 (G-ASJV) - Old Flying Machine Company - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Bristol Boxkite G-ASPP - The Shuttleworth Collection - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Bristol Boxkite G-ASPP - The Shuttleworth Collection - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Westland Puma HC.1 XW212 - 33 Squadron, RAF Benson - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr


Westland Puma HC.1 XW212 - 33 Squadron, RAF Benson - Old Warden, May 2018 by Dan B, on Flickr

[Bill16STN]

What settings were you using on your camera?
I think the dust spots may possibly be related to aperture?

[LN Strike Eagle]

What settings were you using on your camera?
I think the dust spots may possibly be related to aperture?

All the relevant information is presented on Flickr if you click each image, but broadly - Tv, ISO 100, shutter between 1/160th and 1/250th, tried both multi and centre focus points (Blenheim centre, MH434 multi), AI servo focus.

[Blackbird]

A really lovely set Dan

Andy

[Mooshie1956]

Can't help with what caused the dust spots but I had the same problem, about an hour into the show I started to get a load of dust spots, I did wonder if it was sun tan spray from the people around me.
Nice set all the same.

[Jakub.Zurek]

Very nice shots Dan. Could the dust spots perhaps be small bits of grass from the airfield? On some of my shots I seemed to have something similar to what you describe.

[GeorgeP]

Nice comp and techs. I particularly like the ground images which include the grass rwy and trees / hedges in the BG.

Your dust bunnies will be more visible at smaller apertures and longer focal lengths. Their presence is unlikely to be due to particles on the front element but more likely from sensor dust.

[Berf]

Shooting moving aircraft at 1/250 or less is difficult. I find on my first trip out after winter I could throw loads away, by the end of the season it is much better. Technique or simply practice helps a lot. I use AI servo.

[speedbird2639]

I've got a 30D which I've had from new and its always had a problem with dust on the sensor. All you can do is clean you equipment before you go and do everything you can to keep it clean such as not changing lenses in the field etc. You need to ensure that not only is the sensor clean but also all the area inside the camera and the back of the lens as otherwise any vibration (such as the mirror lifting and dropping back will shake it onto the sensor.

I've seen articles by people who kept their equipment spotless and still encountered dust on the sensor and they speculated that it was being generated by the paint or finish on the mirror lifting mech wearing slightly and generating dust within the camera as you used it. This may be true as I had an old D30 before which had been fairly heavily used and this didn't suffer anywhere near as badly with dust.

Later cameras have the vibrating mech on the sensor but in the tests I've seen they said it made no real difference. Given the dust is so light weight (technically mass) electrostatic attraction must play a part so having the sensor electrically earthed (or alternatively producing a small electrical charge to repel the dust might work - I don't know if any camera company has looked at using a burst of charge to 'flick' the dust of the sensor.

A photographer friend of mine uses the compressed air cans to clean inside the camera even though the manual says you shouldn't as they claim the cold gas may harm the camera. I haven't heard of any reports of people who have managed to cryogenically freeze their camera using these sprays.

[Skyflash]

Super stuff, as always - that Blenheim is just...

[Tbolt]

Really great set of pictures. Reasonable flame on 434 - I was on the left side and that didn't have as much.

I use group AF and Sport IS but I'm a Nikon guy so that might not be much help. As for the dust on the sensor, have you checked your sensor now? I usually set it to the smallest aperture, manual focus and make it well out of focus, and take a picture of a plain wall while moving the camera around a bit, that way anything that is sharp on your image you know is crap on the sensor. Can you show us one shot from Saturday with "dust" it on?

[LN Strike Eagle]

I'll post up some shots later that have been equalised in PS to show the variety of dust. I'll do a test shot today too.

Regards panning, I'm certainly not as confident in my own abilities as I used to be. I've missed/messed up so many shots at 1/250th in the last few years that I daren't go any lower.

One thing I'm finding tricky with the lens (70-300 L) is just how best to hold it - I'm used to holding the zoom in the palm of my hand to support the lens, but they've switched the zoom and focus rings around on this one and I'm holding the focus ring while trying to adjust zoom with just two fingers. I think that contributes as it's not a very stable setup.

[rockfordstone]

if dust is showing in pictures it's likely that this will be on the sensor. sadly, its a inevitability with DSLR's because the lens comes on and off.

trying to capture planes at slower than 1/250 is always a challenge. my success rate with jets is higher, but slower shutter speeds are always a challenge.

that said, i don't see a lot wrong with these images. good work

[Seamus]

Lovely crisp images as ever, Dan.

I too had a similar issue with spots appearing on one photo but not the next, so I assume that they weren't dust spots on the sensor at all but, rather something in the atmosphere, bugs, grass etc.

[Tbolt]

Most of my flying shots are done at 1/320th to 1/500th as my hit rate is too low if I go any lower and I'm not going to sacrifice a sharp aircraft for a small amount more prop blur. Landing and take-off shots I use between 1/150th and 1/250th.

[Wrexham Mackem]

First and foremost, this is a gorgeous set of photographs. Absolutely sweet. They reek of Old Warden atmosphere.

I find 1/250 very hit and miss - and lots of miss - I mostly use 1/320 while things are in the air. That said, I have a mark 1 100-400 which has the old 2-stop IS system and no mode 3 - which I'm led to believe is the one to go for while you're moving in two planes.

Dust is far less of a problem for me on my 7DII than on the 40D, so in-camera anti-dust functionality must've got better.

[LN Strike Eagle]

I've got two IS modes on the 70-300. I've been using mode 2 so far this year - it went pretty well at Lakenheath and North Weald, not so much this weekend.

How many shots, on average, would you expect to be keepers from any given pass? If I take between 8-10, I'm lucky if two are super sharp. I read someone saying they managed to keep all but about 15 of the photos they'd taken at the weekend - that, to me, is fantasy land. There's no way I could do that with warbirds, and I think it would be a struggle with jets too.

[Tbolt]

If I took 8-10, I would probably get 3-4 that were super sharp normally, though that can go from 2 to 7. That the reason why I took 4000 pictures on Sunday.

AS for IS panning modes, I'm still not sure how good they are - they do help get some shots sharp, but others I think they can make things worse, but using 500mm I still need it.

[Berf]

I've got two IS modes on the 70-300. I've been using mode 2 so far this year - it went pretty well at Lakenheath and North Weald, not so much this weekend.

How many shots, on average, would you expect to be keepers from any given pass? If I take between 8-10, I'm lucky if 3 are super sharp. I read someone saying they managed to keep all but about 15 of the photos they'd taken at the weekend - that, to me, is fantasy land. There's no way I could do that with warbirds, and I think it would be a struggle with jets too.

There is not set number. Who cares? whats does it matter? It costs nothing to throw them away these days. People have different criteria. I might keep a shot that the is not perfect but it the only one I have. I kept all of the Vulcan shots I took at Shuttleworth good or average so they were all keepers. For another aircraft two thirds could be in the bin. Some people will accept a slight blur indeed one that you might well not see until you blow it up 200-300 per cent. Having a zoom certainly adds a complication to your panning if you do not keep it on one setting. You have identified the problem. Now it is just practice and don't get hung up on settings, focussing types, etc - the basic issue is with the person and that's not just you. Yeovilton is usually my first trip out and I managed to screw up all of the Rafale shots. Looked great on the back of the camera but at 100% plus slight blur. By the end of RIAT it was much better. Now I have gone and got a 500mm lens as I figure if I don't get it now in five years time there's no way I can hold the thing!

[Tbolt]

Lovely crisp images as ever, Dan.

I too had a similar issue with spots appearing on one photo but not the next, so I assume that they weren't dust spots on the sensor at all but, rather something in the atmosphere, bugs, grass etc.

A few of my shots from Sunday have got the usually blurred birds in the background, but I haven't got anything that is abnormal for a show.

[Stagger2]

You could write an entire volume on this. Basically it's all about debris on the sensor relative to aperture. If you step outside today, set your camera to AV & wind the aperture up to max' (2.8 to f4.0 whatever?) & take minimum 2 shots at max focal-length of clear blue sky devoid of birds, bugs & other flying junk. Now change to f20+ aperture & repeat exercise. Examine on computer at 100%. Check first 'two' for bunny movement. First shots will be clear of artefacts, second won't be!
Each time the mirror flaps it's like a Chinook in a dustbowl
Clearly Shuttleworth on a good day will demand you shoot at low shutter-speed (TV) for propblur which will give you f18ish even at 100 ISO. Basically you drop your ISO further or fit a ND. filter, or clean all the debris from the sensor /chamber /rear lens element & bodycap. DON'T use an air-blower in any event, it just shoves the crap up into the mirror?/prism housing to fall-down later in use! Plus your viewfinder presents full of bitz. You wouldn't believe the number of people that chuck the bodycap down to fill with crap & then refit at home-time to empty said detritus into the camera
I haven't checked your EXIF data, but I'm thinking that by the time the Puma lifted, the aperture was nearer f8? & clear of the 'artefact zone'.
I have a vibrating sensor & 'Dust Delete Data' functions, but you cant beat a clean sensor & aperture control. HTH
After all said & done, you've posted some great shots, albeit with some extra work!

[LN Strike Eagle]

I should clarify - I'm well aware of cleaning procedures and how the aperture affects the visibility of dust spots; I've been using a DSLR for years now.

What is odd about Sunday is that there will be dust in a shot that is absent from the next, taken less than a second later, and as mentioned, a hair that moved left and right for a sequence of 20 photos or so that then disappears completely for the remainder of the day, regardless of aperture values.

I'll post examples later.

Ive had this camera (50D) for three years now and this was the first time I'd given it a clean because it had been doing OK with the vibration function; a recent helo image at North Weald revealed lots of spots to clone out though (slow shutter so higher f stop), which I thought I'd get rid of before the show season.

[LN Strike Eagle]

Here we go then. The first two are shot in sequence, so there's only miliseconds between them. As you can see, the settings don't change drastically, yet the dust moves all over the place...





A few minutes later, it's all clear...



Here's the hair I mentioned...



Three minutes later, it's moved a fair way...



Another pair of sequential shots with dust moving all around the image...





And right at the end of the day, the Puma shot is pretty much completely clear of blemishes...



There's no drastic changes in settings between any of them, but the dust is coming and going all day. In the Blenheim take-off pics, there's loads of stuff and it's all smeared/motioned blurred? Maybe Shaun was onto something?

[Wrexham Mackem]

Wow what a weird phenomenon. I wouldn't have thought f10 was narrow enough to show up quite so much dust. But motion blurred dust spotting is just not possible - is it??

I can understand why you're getting frustrated there though Dan.

[Tbolt]

Quite strange to have that much dust moving that much in between shots. Not sure what you managed to get in there like that but a good dry or even wet clean should sort it out anyway.